From the Winter 2017 issue
Owner of Fishbone Bistro, Fishbone Kitchen + Bar, Fishbone By the Lake and Fishbone Kitchen & Wine Bar at Friday Harbour Resort (2018)
Career Path: Adega, Acqua, Chiado Restaurant, Centro, Zucca Trattoria
Years of Experience as a Chef: 6, plus 14 working in Dining Room Service
CRFN: What are your earliest memories of cooking?
Pedro Pereira: I remember at an early age back in Portugal watching my grandmother baking bread in the wood oven, roasting chestnuts, watching the pig being slaughtered and the women gathering around washing pig intestines to fill as chorizo while the men broke down the pig. It was an event I always looked forward to. When I was around 13 or 14, I got into the stage of baking this apple cake for my parents every Saturday night before I went out with my friends. I enjoyed cooking but at no point did I think I would be getting into the foodservice industry, considering our family was in sporting goods.
Why do you think you were drawn to a culinary career?
I wasn’t drawn to it but fell in love with it by default. After many years working in front of house, I opened my own take-out restaurant with no culinary degree, cooking experience, investors or partners, and strictly based on what I thought was good food so I could get my feet wet with ownership. But I was missing the dining room, so I opened Fishbone, hired chefs, and let them take full control of the food operations. I quickly realized I needed more control and knowledge of my own business and never wanted to feel like I was held ransom by a chef or employee. I needed to fill any position at any time in case something ever happened. I took control of my kitchens four years ago after coming second in the selection process of bringing the Jamie`s Italian expansion to Canada (a project in partnership with famed British chef Jamie Oliver), and realized I had a brand of my own to expand instead. So, I engraved my style of cooking, dishes and philosophy into the brand and haven’t looked back since. I love what I do in the kitchen as much as working the dining room.
How would you describe your restaurants?
A very simple but proud operation. We take the principle of being in the customer’s shoes to design what we want to offer. We want a restaurant with great food, exceptional value, outstanding service and a welcoming ambiance to create warm relationships with those who come through the doors. Our staff have all become very close with customers and amongst each other, even with multiple locations. We have a family vibe, although it’s a corporation.
If you knew you were eating your last meal, what would you have?
As cliché as it sounds, charcoal grilled chicken with piri piri, white rice, French fries and salad from my parent’s backyard, all cooked by mom and dad — he barbecues and she does the rest.
What is your philosophy about food?
I believe food creates memories, experiences and tantalizes the senses, but most importantly it brings families and friends together at the table. We should put those phones down, be grateful and enjoy every second and every bite. We also need to be more critical of what we eat. It’s one thing we generally do three times a day, so should it not always be great, fresh and mostly healthy?
Where do you go to dine out?
I definitely like to dine out as much as I can and at as many restaurants as possible. I continuously get inspired by other chefs through their food. My favourite and most frequented, however, is Bar Isabel in Toronto.
What is your favourite ingredient?
Salt. Everything tastes better with salt.
Who were your biggest influences and inspirations for becoming a chef?
There have been chefs during my front-of-house career that I believe had an impact on how I create my dishes. Manny Vilela from Chiado when it came to Portuguese cuisine; Andrew Milne-Allan at Zucca with simple, somewhat rustic and delicious flavours; and Anthony Bourdain, because we all want to be rock star chefs. But flavours from mom and dad’s cooking hold a special degree of inspiration.
If you knew you were going to be exiled to a desert island, what three ingredients or food items would take with you?
Bread, a whole Prosciutto and red wine.
What do you think is the most overrated food trend right now?
Anything that makes people line up for hours, only to then be disappointed! Stop that — there are so many options out there!
What do you think is the most underrated food trend?
I believe Portuguese has been underrated for a long time because of the perception that Portuguese food is barbeque chicken with piri piri. It has way more to offer and those who have now visited the country realize how much more there is to it. There hasn’t been a Portuguese chef promoting or educating a larger audience about Portuguese cuisine. Just like our wines have been discovered, let there be light on our amazing food!
Is there any type of cuisine that you would like to experiment more with?
Southeast and Southern Asian. It was a big source of spices to Portugal in the 1500s, and curries are still part of our cuisine. They also show a great respect for the products used, as food is so important in their cultures and never taken for granted.
What are the essential ingredients for success in the foodservice industry today?
Patience, service, business knowledge, cash flow and a great team.
Which cooking technique or tool is a favourite of yours right now, and why?
Sharp knives, now and forever. They make my job so much easier. But my hands are the most versatile tool I use which also allow me to connect with the product.
Do you have any culinary guilty pleasures or food treats that you couldn’t live without?
I have a sweet tooth, so chocolate, ice cream or any dessert for that matter. But proper French fries could very well be a daily thing. That said, bread is my ultimate weakness.
What are some of the most interesting or unique challenges of being a chef and restaurant owner?
Trying to work under a government-controlled alcohol system and having a government that doesn`t understand business ownership challenges. Also, having the customers understand that modifying a dish is like taking away its soul. More recently, not getting enough culinary applicants nowadays because being a social media chef is way cooler as it’s less work and no one will ever taste the food in the beautiful pictures.
What advice would you have for aspiring new chefs as they enter the industry?
Maintain high standards. Don`t ever work at a place or serve food that wouldn`t make you happy as a customer or proud as an employee. Also, if you are thinking of going to culinary school, choose wisely. It’s a business for them like most post-secondary education. Perhaps walk into a good restaurant, do a trial, ask to work and learn hands on before you make a commitment to this industry. It’ll become your life.
