It’s becoming harder and harder to predict trends, given that we have seen them all coming and going. The appearance of some of these trends is also influenced by the existence of the social media phenomenon and, of course, by the up-and-coming sommelier generation, among other organizations and marketing entities.
Trends are what you want them to be because ultimately it is you, as both a consumer and foodservice operator, who must find satisfaction in what you are serving, drinking and eating. Personally, I don’t see certain trends picking up or even gaining roots, but the world of wine should be looked upon and experienced from an unbiased perspective. Therefore I have asked four sommelier colleagues to share their vision, findings and passion and here’s what they had to say:
Blair Aspinall – General Manager/Partner, Zucca Trattoria, Toronto
I have been a wine professional for about 10 years. These days I’m very passionate about Italian wines and I’ll always have a love for the wines of Burgundy.
I think that consumers are becoming more comfortable with wine. When I graduated from sommelier school it was kind of a big deal, but these days most good restaurants have at least one wine pro on staff. Many of our guests are still overwhelmed by Italian wines, but at least now we can speak the same language. People may not know what Barolo is, but they can understand “dry, lean, powerful, aromatic, and juicy.” They understand terroir, and they are happy to listen to my suggestions.
I am hopeful that this rise in comfort will lead to a demand for less-known grape varieties. Instead of asking for a glass of Shiraz or Pinot Grigio, ask for my recommendation and get rewarded with Aglianico or Fiano di Avelino.
Craig MacLean – Sommelier, Spencer’s at the Waterfront, Burlington, Ont.
I have been an official sommelier since finishing the International Sommelier Guild’s Diploma program in 2010. Since then, I have gone on to complete the ISG’s Instructor’s Program, and have taught both its Level 1 and Level 2 classes.
I have only been involved in the world of wine since 2007, when I started working at Spencer’s. Previous to that, I was strictly a pub bartender slinging pints. Upon my hiring at Spencer’s, I was quickly promoted to bar manager, and part of that promotion entailed enrolment in wine education. I feel like my entry into this world has allowed me to see the changing styles and trends of the wine world from a different perspective. I don’t have a lot of the preconceived notions that perhaps a more seasoned oenophile would have. Stoic rules about aging wines, or falling into the trap of so-called classic food and wine pairings are things that nouveau wine drinkers are forced to follow. I feel experimentation and pushing the rules of winemaking are creating a new generation of wine drinkers who have the freedom to try things that 10-15 years ago weren’t possible, or at the very least, wouldn’t be accepted by the wine society.
Being located 30 minutes from Niagara, I have grown to have a large affinity for the wines of the Niagara region. I’ve been lucky enough to forge relationships with a lot of the producers and am a proud drinker, and purveyor, of their wines. I have noticed a sharp increase in the purchasing habits of our customers as well, both in the number of them buying Ontario wines and also the willingness to spend more money on those wines. While Burlington wine drinkers commonly fall back to the old faithfuls of California, Italy and France, I’m happiest when customers ask me about some of my favourites: oddities like Zlahtina from Croatia, Albarino from Spain or Aglianico from Italy. Customers are willing to trust that just because they may have not heard of that wine before, it is in fact a quality wine, and will be worth spending money on.
I am of the school of thought that wine needs to be “brought to the masses.” Perhaps it is because I’m still fairly new in my wine life, but I have a strong philosophy that people should drink what they like, and like what they drink. Sure, there is a time and place for classic wine service and culture, but on my end, I’d rather crack a bottle and drink it out of paper cups with friends and make the occasion special, than save wine for a special occasion.
Sarah Dewar – Sommelier, Nero’s Steakhouse at Caesars Windsor Hotel and Casino, Windsor, Ont.
I discovered my love for wine 18 years ago after a summer job on the bottling line at a local winery. Inspired by the growth of the Lake Erie North Shore region and missing the daily involvement in the industry, I formalized my wine education by obtaining my Certified Sommelier Certificate in 2008 through Niagara College and the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. I now oversee the 300 bottle wine program at Nero’s Steakhouse.
Nero’s is, first and foremost, a steakhouse and the wine list reflects this with an emphasis towards the red wine selection. Being situated within a border city, the focus continues strongly toward California reds. The majority of patrons are most appreciative of big, fruit-driven reds and less so of the nuance and subtleties of traditional Old World wines.
One of the most exciting trends witnessed at Nero’s over the last two years is the increasing appetite for local wine. Canadian wines as a whole are not big movers at Nero’s with the exception being Lake Erie North Shore wine. A dedicated half page at the front of the list highlights local selections, making them easier for guests to identify.
Jozsef Petroczy – Sommelier, Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Ottawa
I always had keen interest in beverages throughout my career. after many years in the cruise industry, I completed my WSET Level 3 advanced level certificate last year, and I am currently working on my WSET Level 4 Diploma. I focus on Canadian, French and Californian wines, keeping smaller selections of other regions of the world. When it comes to listings, I am looking for various factors: if it is a good fit for my list, I pay a lot of attention to biodynamic and organic certified wines as well as wines created by sustainable or carbon neutral practices. I have had the pleasure of meeting winemakers from all over the world and getting first-hand information of the wine they produce. My favourite Canadian winemaker is Thomas Bacheleder, who is doing a phenomenal job in three different regions of the world. His excellent Chardonnays will be followed by stunning Pinot Noirs in the coming months.
Currently we still see a high consumption of the classics of California Chardonnay, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Italian Pinot Grigio, on the white wine front. At the same time Ontario wines are doing very well, Niagara Chardonnay and Riesling especially. On the red wine side, Cabernet Sauvignon is the choice of grape evenly from Ontario and California, followed by local and Californian Pinot Noirs. Malbec, the signature grape from Argentina, is asked for highly. On the experimenting level, I listed two Hungarian wines this summer – a Tokaji Furmint and Kekfrankos form Eger. Both of the wines are well liked and sought after by our guests.
Lately guests are staying away from super heavy jammy wines from warm climate regions and asking for lighter wines like Pinot Noir from cool climates and Burgundy. Local wines are getting better and challenging many other wines from different regions.
About the author:
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo is a hospitality consultant offering wine sourcing and staff training services to restaurants. He is also the sommelier at the Trump International Hotel & Tower. Check out his website www.zszabo.com or follow him on Twitter @zoltanszabo. If you’d like to find out more about the wines mentioned above, email Zoltan at [email protected].
